Introduction
The circular economy is a system where materials never become waste and nature is regenerated. In a circular economy, products and materials are kept in circulation through processes like maintenance, reuse, refurbishment, remanufacture, recycling, and composting. (Ellen Macarthur, 2021)
So then if we take these concepts of a circular economy and apply it to cosmetics what does that look like?
1) Packaging
Packaging is by far one of the biggest concerns for the cosmetic industry. Recycling is not the answer. Only 14% of packaging actually makes it to a recycling plant, from that only 9% is recycled and the rest heads directly to landfills. Most of this is single use plastic packaging which can take up to 450 years to breakdown in landfill. (British Beauty Council, 2023)
Upcycling packaging is part of the solution. Instead of throwing packaging away, keep and reuse it. Take them to refill stores and fill up on your showers gels, shampoos and hand wash. If you are a cosmetic formulator ask your family and friends for their empty squeeze bottles, and jars. Re use these for your formulations.
2) Ingredient Sourcing
One of the problems with the use of synthetic ingredients is many of them are not readily biodegradable, or renewable. The waste produced from ingredient manufactures is another cause for concern. Many synthetic ingredients at their 100% strength pose serious threats to aquatic life and biodiversity.
A huge misconception in the cosmetic and beauty industry is that natural means sustainable. It does not. By using ingredients that are grown and produced locally you can dramatically reduce the carbon footprint of the product. If you cannot trace an ingredient back to it origin, chances are it has been cultivated using unsustainable or unethical practices.
Upcycling ingredients that are byproducts from other systems or services allowing materials to circulate instead of going to waste. Examples include hydrosols such as rose hydrosol or peppermint hydrosol. These are by products of the steam distillation process used to extract essential oils and an example of up cycled ingredients. Looking at the food system what materials are byproducts and which of these can we use for our cosmetics.
Take a look at this excellent organisation No Palm Ingredients they turn food waste into cosmetic ingredients. This is exactly the kind of innovation we need see as we seek to make cosmetics more circular.
3) Formulations
What we formulate also plays a vital role, a big consideration is water. Water makes up much of our cosmetic products, from lotions, to conditioners, serums, shower gels and much more.
Water scarcity is an increasing problem on every continent, with poorer communities most badly affected. To build resilience against climate change and to serve a growing population, an integrated and inclusive approach must be taken to managing this finite resource. (United Nations, 2023).
As formulators I think a large part of the circular beauty movement will involve formulating more waterless formulas. Body butter bars, lotion bars, soap bars, shampoo and conditioner bars. By using less in our cosmetic formulation
We can preserve this precious finite resource. Furthermore by using bars we have a more potent concentrated product extending the life span of the product. Encouraging reduced consumerism.
Conclusion
Creating a more sustainable cosmetic industry is a multi faceted problem with multiple efforts needed. In this blog we took a look at what the circular economy is and some of the ways we can apply this theory to the cosmetic industry. Innovation is crucial we must replace old systems with new ones, this is an exciting time for entrepreneurs to put their best foot forward and help solve the sustainability problems in the cosmetic industry. I have included some further research sources that will help educate you on circular cosmetics.
Further Research Resources:
References
British Beauty Council. (2023). How to make greener beauty choice. Date Accessed [13/11/2023]. Available at: https://britishbeautycouncil.com/ppbg/packaging/
Ellen Macarthur. (2021). Explaining the circular economy: rethink process. Date Accessed [13/11/2023]. Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/videos/explaining-the-circular-economy-rethink-progress
United Nations. (2023). Water Scarcity. Date Accessed [13/11/2023]. Available at: https://www.unwater.org/water-facts/water-scarcity