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  • Writer's pictureAshleigh Elizabeth
    • Apr 9
    • 4 min read

The science behind how conditioners work


Introduction


In this blog we will taking a look at what hair conditioners are and the science behind how they work. We will also be looking at the hair structure and physiology. We will then be taking what we have learned about the science behind how hair conditioners perform the way they do and the hair physiology to determine how to take care of our hair depending on our hair type.


What are hair conditioners


Hair conditioners are hair care products designed to improve the texture, appearance, and manageability of the hair. They work

smoothing the hair cuticle, and reducing frizz and tangles. Hair conditioners typically contain ingredients such as lipids that provide moisture, proteins and vitamins to provide hydration, strengthen the hair shaft, and enhance shine and smoothness. They are typically used after shampooing to replenish moisture lost during cleansing or as leave-in treatments for extra hydration and protection. Hair conditioners come in various forms, including rinse-off conditioners, deep conditioning treatments, leave-in conditioners, and hair masks, catering to different hair types and concerns.


Hair Structure



(Erdoğan, 2016)


Hair physiology


Hair has various functions such as protection against external factors, sebum, apocrine sweat and pheromones production and thermoregulation. (Erdoğan, 2017). Hair has a built-in system to protect it from daily damages like heat, friction and water, and a big part of that defense system lies near the root of hair: sebaceous glands that produce oil to coat and protect the hair. Now depending on your hair type and scalp this oil can affect your hair in different ways. For instance, African-American hair tends to produce less sebum. Thin, straight hair can get oily more quickly because it's easier for the oils to work their way down the hair shaft. Curly hair has a lot more twists and turns, so it takes longer for oils to travel down it. A layer of lipids coating the hair shaft is another major part of that system. The body can't repair hair after it has grown out of the root; at that point it's dead. But this layer of fatty molecules helps protect and preserve the hair. That natural lipid shield can wear away, or get damaged from daily barrages like blow-drying, brushing and applying styling products. (Masterson, 2009)



The science


The hair has a negative charge, the more damaged the hair is the higher its negative charge. To counteract this we use cationic emulsifiers such as BTMS 50 which are positively charged. Using a conditioner causes the surface charge to become positive in just 20 seconds. Once the conditioner is washed out, the charge returns to negative just as quickly as it previously became positive, but does not reach the original negative value of the native hair. This indicates only partial desorption of the conditioner. (Paar, 2004). In other words upon application of a positively charged cationic conditioner to our negatively charged hair, the hair shaft smooths resulting in a shiny, silky finish. So contrary to popular belief this is what causes the hair to have a silky finish after being conditioned and not the oils in the conditioner. Technically when the hair is being conditioned a very minimal if any amount of moisturising takes place but rather it is the positive charge from the cationic emulsifier that smooths and shines the hair. When formulating a hair conditioner only a very small amount of lipids (oils) are actually used, primarily they are used for marketing claims as opposed to providing any real benefit. Most of the work is done by the cationic emulsifier found in the hair conditioner formula.



Hair care and different hair types


Now we understand the science behind how conditioners work we have learnt that hair conditioners do not actually function as moisturisers. Those with thin straight hair types will have an easier time keeping their hair adequately moisturised due to sebum (oil) produced by the sebaceous gland being able to easily travel down throughout the hair strand. In addition to the benefits provided from the cationic positively charged hair conditioner this should be enough to maintain healthy hair. However those with African- American hair types produce less sebum in addition to that the tight coils make it very difficult for any oil produced by the sebaceous gland to travel down throughout the hair strand and keep it moisturised; the same is true for any one with curly hair. As the hair strand itself once grown from the root is technically dead it doesn’t produce any sebum (oil) on its own. Therefore it is very important to regularly moisturise the hair with hair creams and butters to prevent breakage, this is non negotiable especially if you are trying to grow your hair. There’s a tendency to focus on scalp stimulation to encourage new growth when it comes to hair growth, this is only part of the picture. It is equally if not more important that the current hair strands are receiving adequate moisture so the hair strands are not breaking off as quickly as new growth is being stimulated, otherwise the hair won’t get any longer but it will stay the same length.


Conclusion


In this blog we have discussed what hair conditioners are, how they are made and delved into the science behind how conditioners work in the hair. We have also taken a look at the hair physiology and used what we have learned about the science of how hair conditions work and hair physiology to inform hair care routines for different hair types. I hope you found this blog informative and that is has helped you to understand how hair conditioners work and how to better take care of your hair.


References


Erdoğan, Bilgen. (2017). Anatomy and Physiology of Hair. Accessed [16/01/2024]. Available at: https://www.intechopen.com/chapters/53880



Parr, Anton. (2024). Surface charge of hair. Accessed [16/01/2024]. Available at: https://wiki.anton-paar.com/uk-en/surface-charge-of-hair/

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